M O S C O W

Brief History

The Kremlin and its surrounds were probably settled by the 11th century, but the founding of Moscow is traditionally ascribed to Yury Dolgoruky, Prince of Suzdal, who is recorded as giving a feast here in 1147. In 1237-38 Moscow was sacked along with the rest of the Vladimir-Suzdal realm by Tatars led by Batu, Genghis Khan's grandson. These Tatars set up a capital at Saray on the southern Volga and became known as the Golden Horde. Moscow, near river trade routes, The Ancient Kremlinbecame a princedom in its own right, and emerged as the Golden Horde's chief northern tribute collector. It wasn't until the late 15th century, under Prince Ivan III, called the Great, could Moscow cease paying tribute to the horde. By the end of Ivan's reign, Moscow's control stretched from Novgorod in the west to Tula in the south, towards the Urals in the east and to the Barents Sea in the north. Ivan brought Italian architects to build cathedrals in the Kremlin and styled himself ruler 'of all Russia'.

Ivan IV ('the Terrible') expanded Muscovite territory by launching the conquest of Siberia and winning control of the Volga. By 1571 the city had over 100,000 people and was one of the biggest in the world. Tsar Boris Godunov faced both famine and a Polish-backed invasion. The seven years after his death were the Time of Troubles - characterized by civil war, invasions and Moscow being occupied by Poland. The Poles were driven out and 16-year-old Mikhail Romanov was elected tsar by a council of nobles, launching the 300-year Romanov dynasty and a period of consolidation during which Moscow's territory spread southwards.

Peter the Great toured Europe in 1697-98. He built a new capital, St Petersburg, on the Baltic to open Russia up to Western trade and ideas and toCathedral of Christ the Savior, a modern remake, resembling the original destroyed by bolsheviks consolidate military victories over Sweden. He disliked Moscow, where as a boy he had seen his uncle and his mother's advisers killed in a palace coup, and forced the nobility to move to St Petersburg. However, Moscow remained important enough to be Napoleon's main goal when his troops marched on Russia in 1812. After the bloody Battle of Borodino 130km (81mi) west of the city, the Russians abandoned Moscow and allowed Napoleon to march in and install himself in the Kremlin. The night he arrived a great fire broke out which burnt most of the city, including the stores. With winter coming, the French had to pull out little more than a month after they had arrived.

Moscow was feverishly rebuilt and the city's population grew from 350,000 in the 1840s to 1.4 million in 1914. October 1917 saw more savage street fighting in Moscow than in St Petersburg. The Bolsheviks occupied, lost and retook the Kremlin over an eight-day period. In 1918 the government moved back to Moscow after two centuries' absence, fearing that St Petersburg (Petrograd back then) might come under German attack. Moscow became the epicenter of the country's total reorganization. Under Stalin, one of the world's first comprehensive urban plans was devised for Moscow. The first line of the metro was completed in 1935. German troops came within 40km (25mi) of the Kremlin in December 1941. After WWII huge housing estates grew up round the outskirts. Now Moscow is one of the the biggest city of Europe - area: 1035 sq km2 (405 mi2) and population: 9 million people.

The White HouseMoscow had been in the forefront of political change, and a thorn in the flesh of the national leaders, since the first whispers of glasnost in the mid-1980s. Boris Yeltsin, made the city's new Communist Party chief in 1985, became hugely popular as he sacked hundreds of corrupt commercial managers, set up new food markets and permitted demonstrations. This last was too much for the communist old guard and led to Yeltsin's resignation in 1987.

It was the rallying of Muscovites behind Yeltsin at Moscow's 'White House', New views of Moscowseat of the parliament of the Russian Republic, that foiled the old-guard coup in 1991 and precipitated the ultimate collapse of the Soviet Union. By the mid-1990s Moscow was very much the vanguard of the 'new Russia', filling up with all the things Russians had expected capitalism to bring but which had barely begun to percolate down to the provinces: banks, stock exchanges, casinos, advertising, BMWs, new shops, hotels, restaurants and nightlife. 

Yes, the populace now prefer impromptu street markets to the huge state department stores, and churches which were destroyed or abandoned during the Soviet era are being lovingly restored. But anyway at any step you'll find the real flavor of Moscow in its small nooks and crannies, each of them unique.

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